To León - 39 miles

I awoke after a good night's sleep and with a renewed vigour for my journey. My aim today: to cycle to León and catch an onward train from there late in the afternoon. For reasons I can not establish it seems there are no trains leaving Cistierna for anywhere. 

It was a lovely ride. Despite the continuous views of hills and mountains yesterday, for the most part my journey was flat and on small and deserted roads. A stretch alongside a small river led to a few miles through a patchwork of cultivated fields along the valley floor, my only company the storks strutting in the crops and my own thoughts. I pedalled through tiny villages that I was out of almost as soon as I entered - Modino, Pesquera, Carvajal de Rueda. Each was a handful of houses, a mix of the tidy and the crumbling ancient, and each had at its centre an aging but solid stone church with more storks nesting in the bell towers. This was everything I hoped for on my forthcoming ride although realistically the idea of flat roads is probably wildly optimistic for the first few days.

As if the Universe were aware of my thoughts, halfway to León I had a winding climb, one of those where hopes that rounding the next curve would see the beginning of a descent are continually thwarted. It was over a mile of steady uphill before I was rewarded with a long downhill stretch and then more quiet and flat roads before, within a few miles of León, things got busier. I stopped for brunch in a small town with a sense of the familiar and realised I was at a point on the route of the Camino Frances that I walked some seven years ago. Joining its gravel track I cycled to the edge of the city along the route, greeting the dozen or so walkers I passed with a 'Buen Camino’ for old time's sake.

I headed first to the station and once again I was to be confounded by the Spanish rail system. The slow train to Ourense, my now anticipated stop before Vigo, would not take bikes. So instead of leaving today I am now forced into an overnight stay to await an early train tomorrow, and only as far as Ponferrada sixty miles away. I could probably get there in a day by cycling but, unlike today, it is definitely a route of steep hills so I will save myself for the ones I will face when I leave Vigo.

Of all the places to be unexpectedly stuck though, León is one of those I would choose. It is an old city and full of character and charm. The centre is largely pedestrianised so it is also full of people rather than cars. And the streets are full of small bars and restaurants and shops selling quality local produce; there is a lovely feel to the place. In addition there are Roman walls, a beautifully graceful gothic cathedral in a spacious square and a building by Gaudi looking for all the world like a fairytale palace. It is most definitely a place where you can wander, soak up the atmosphere and shed yourself of the frustrations of a journey not going to plan. 

Gaudi Building - Casa Botines

León Cathedral

Roman Walls